Dezeen Magazine

Valeska Jasso Collado folds latex-covered foam into geometric garments

Fashion designer Valeska Jasso Collado combined metal, foam and latex to create Memphis-influenced garments for her University of Westminster graduate collection.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

Valeska Jasso Collado chose an unusual combination of materials to create bold shapes reminiscent of furniture from the 1980s Milan-based design movement lead by designer Ettore Sottsass.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

"My shapes are inspired by Memphis style furniture and interior," Jasso Collado told Dezeen. "I love the geometric forms."

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

Using sheets of foam as the base material, Jasso Collado stuck on layers of latex in different colours.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

"I chose foam because it would make the voluminous but clean shapes I had in mind possible," she said. "It also meant I didn't have to build any kind of frame or stuffing which are more common methods to create volume for garments."

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

"It took me months of sampling to figure out what material to combine the foam with and how to keep it together to prevent it from ripping for example," Jasso Collado explained. "Most materials wouldn't stay on or would change the way it shaped."

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

Large sections of fabric were folded, pleated and sliced to reveal the layers of colour. The resulting oversized garments create a range of geometric silhouettes.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

One top formed from a circular section of speckled material curved up to cover the lower half of the face, with holes for arms to slot through the front.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

Elements such as chunky pieces of flecked multicoloured foam were pinned to the garments with steel screws and chrome washers.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

Some pieces were edged and streaked with lines of latex in contrasting colours.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

The bright colours and smooth glossy textures were influence by the work of ceramic artist Ben Feiss.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

"Compared to the rest of the collections from my university this year I think the cleanness and focus on a variety of silhouettes within the collection makes it stand out," said Jasso Collado.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

Jasso Collado admitted that the garments aren't particularly wearable in their current state, but hopes to adapt the fabrication techniques for accessories.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

"I don't think latex and foam are the most comfortable materials to wear unless it is a rainy winter day," she said.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

"I will carry on with fabrication sampling and change some of the shapes too. I'd also like to make some big bags. I'm really looking forward to that."

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

We've noticed a recent resurgence of the Memphis style in both fashion and industrial design, most prominently in Milan earlier this year.

Valeska Valentina Jasso Collado Westminster graduate collection

Elsewhere, American Apparel launched a collection that includes patterns by Memphis group member Nathalie du Pasquier, while a collection of prints influenced by colours and motifs from Memphis design was shown during New York design week.

Photography is by Theresa Marx.