Pieteke Korte treated chrome-tanned top-grain cow leather with a variety of techniques to create the different effects, in line with six abstract mood boards she created.
The iridescent colour effects were achieved using heat-transferred foils and pearlescents embedded into the surface of coloured leather.
"In most instances the illusions rely on a base colour which is dyed into the leather, and a secondary colour which is added to the surface of the leather either using paint or foils," Korte told Dezeen.
Geometric patterns generating moiré effects and optical interferences were either engraved into the surface of the leather to expose a secondary colour, or screen printed onto the surface of the material.
"Laser engraving is done in most cases by hand, but large format laser cutters were used on some of the lighter coloured samples to prevent the lasers burning the leather," Korte said. "There is a last step which is important to the process but it's a trade secret."
Korte started working with leather through an ongoing partnership between Design Academy Eindhoven and leather brand Ecco.
"The thing I have enjoyed most about working with leather is that it is a very malleable material, which gives a lot of space for experimentation. Working with leather frequently feels like cooking, whereas working with textiles always felt more like a maths class."
The designer created the collection for the fashion industry, to highlight movement in accessories and clothing such as shirts, skirts and bags.
"There are a lot of processes already used on leather to add to its natural properties, for example snake skins, printed foils, die cutting, etc," said Korte. "Introducing grids and patterns was my way of taking it a step further giving the leather an extra dimension – engraving leather shapes the way it moves."
Photography is by Nick Meehan
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