Layers of blue fabric pleated into origami-like patterns bounced down the catwalk at Central Saint Martins graduate Jaimee McKenna's Autumn Winter 2013 show.
Knitted from lambswool, the fabric were felted to create a more rigid material that could be creased into tessellating pleats in various styles.
"I found an image from a 1950s Vogue of an elaborate pleated skirt that had such structure and presence," McKenna told Dezeen. "I then developed my own felt that would hold its structure but still have a beautiful drape once it was pleated."
The pleating allowed clothes to concertina when the models walked, creating movement through each of the layers.
The blue colour used for the entire collection was inspired by an ultramarine shade first mixed by post-war French artist Yves Klein.
A couple of garments were dip-dyed in a darker hue, influenced by swatches McKenna experimented with during her first year of study.
Extra bands of folded material formed chunky armbands or belts, with tights and shoes matching the dresses.
Sign up for a daily roundup
of all our stories