Dezeen Magazine

Stedelijk Museum shows Gijs+Emmy exhibition of Futuristic jewellery

Jewellery that resembles stove pipes is among body adornments by Dutch fashion design duo Gijs+Emmy to go on show at Amsterdam's Stedelijk Museum later this month (+ slideshow).

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker with Large Collar by Gijs Bakker, 1967, from collection Stedelijk Museum, ‘s-Hertogenbosch. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

The Gijs+Emmy Spectacle revisits a sensational collaborative exhibition of work by husband and wife team Gijs Bakker and Emmy van Leersum that was at the Stedelijk Museum in 1967.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker in blue and black pantsuit with Large Collar, 1967. Pantsuit from collection Gemeentemuseum, Den Haag. Collar from collection Stedelijk Museum, ’s-Hertogenbosch. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

"In the late 1960s, Bakker and Van Leersum, both trained jewellery designers, created a furore with their avant-garde jewelry and clothing that fused fashion, design and art," said a statement from the museum.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker with Stovepipe Collar and Stovepipe Bracelet by Gijs Bakker, 1967. Collar from collection Centraal Museum, Utrecht. Armband from collection Stedelijk Museum, ’s-Hertogenbosch. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

The pair's duct pipe bracelets and curved aluminium collars caused a stir when first exhibited, displayed on live models who moved to electronic music under futuristic lighting.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker with Ten-loop Bracelet by Gijs Bakker, 1965. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

For this new retrospective, the original exhibition will be recreated with the help of first-hand accounts and consultation from Bakker.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker with Large Collar by Gijs Bakker, 1967, from collection Stedelijk Museum, ‘s-Hertogenbosch. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

Sculptural jewellery and fashion designs created by the duo between 1967 and 1972 from the museum's collection and other sources will go on show.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker with Large Collar by Gijs Bakker, 1967, from collection Stedelijk Museum, ‘s-Hertogenbosch. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

Iconic designs such as Bakker's purple Stovepipe Necklace and matching bracelet are among the pieces to be exhibited.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker in turquoise halter dress with Neck Ornament by Gijs Bakker, 1967. Dress from collection Gemeentemuseum, Den Haag. Neck ornament from collection Stedelijk Museum, ’s-Hertogenbosch. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

Hinged metal collars that curve downwards over the shoulders and upwards around the sides of the face will also feature, alongside gold bangles with sinuous shapes and oversized earrings.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Sonja Bakker with Onion Bracelet, 1965 and Untitled Earings, 1966 by Gijs Bakker. Photograph by Matthijs Schrofer.

In these images the designs are worn by 1960s model Sonja Bakker, who isn't related to the designers.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Stovepipe Bracelet by Gijs Bakker, 1967, from collection Stedelijk Museum ’s-Hertogenbosch. Photograph by Rien Bazen, courtesy of Gijs Bakker.

Bakker and Van Leersum met while studying at the Institute of Applied Art in Amsterdam during the 1950s. Bakker went on to found Droog, the avant-garde conceptual Dutch design collective in 1993.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Scholderpiece by Gijs Bakker, 1967. Photograph by Rien Bazen, courtesy of Gijs Bakker.

The exhibition opens on 22 February and will continue until 24 August.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Renie van Wijk with PVC Head Ornament by Gijs Bakker, 1967. Photograph by Sjaak Ramakers.

The Stedelijk Museum is currently hosting a retrospective of work by Dutch designer Marcel Wanders.

Gijs+Emmy exhibition of futuristic jewellery to open at the Stedelijk Museum
Renie van Wijk in cyclamen dress with Two-piece Aluminum Collar by Emmy van Leersum, 1967. Photo by Sjaak Ramakers.

An extension to the museum, which looks a bit like the underside of a kitchen sink, was completed in September 2012 by Benthem Crouwel Architects.