Viktor & Rolf mixes Picasso and polo shirts for Spring Summer 2016 haute couture

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Dutch fashion house Viktor & Rolf has continued its "wearable art" theme with an haute-couture collection of sculptural white garments made from Cubist facial features.

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Viktor & Rolf's The Performance of Sculptures was shown yesterday at Paris' Palais de Tokyo, during the city's haute-couture fashion week.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

The Spring Summer 2016 range builds on previous art-influenced collections, including last season's wearable paintings and an earlier range of garments based on Van Gogh artworks.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

The starting point for the most-recent collection was the simple white polo shirt, which the designers fused with the work of another famous artist: the Spanish Cubist, Pablo Picasso.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

"This season, the collection explores the idea of the archetypical white polo shirt meeting Cubism," said a statement from Viktor & Rolf, which decided to drop its ready-to-wear lines to focus on couture and perfume last year.



Parading to a choral rendition of Radiohead's 1993 track Creep, the first models appeared in polo-collared dresses with short sleeves and oversized buttons.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

Mismatched facial features and body parts stuck onto, or cut out from, the fabric created abstract portraits.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

Each of the garments was made entirely from a white technical piqué – a cotton material woven with fine ribbing, creating a magnified eyelet structure.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

As the performance progressed, the simple looks gave way to more and more sculptural garments.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

The additions became larger and more exaggerated, with waves of material representing hair extended from shoulders and partially covering faces.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

"The designs blur the boundaries between garment and sculpture, and question the relationship between wearer and clothing, sometimes overtaking the body and obscuring the face of the wearer," said Viktor & Rolf.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

Asymmetric silhouettes and frilled hems were combined to give a "spontaneous, thrown-together look".

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

"The effect of rapid improvisation is deceptive however: every seemingly random cut, blotch or chip is meticulously hand finished," the house said.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

Gradually exaggerated, the later designs fully masked the models – who could only see the catwalk through subtle perforations in the fabric.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

Some looks incorporated a number of Cubist faces into single outfits, either side by side to form extra-wide pieces or stacked up like the faces found on totem poles.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

The final garment features the shape of a standard polo shirt mounted high above where the wearer's head would be, on top of layered portions.

To complete the styling, the all-white garments were juxtaposed with black boots from UK footwear brand Dr Martens.

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

A capsule collection derived from the haute-couture designs – comprising a white technical piqué polo dress, tunic and polo shirt – will be available for pre-order from luxury online fashion retailer Moda Operandi on 30 January 2016. Prices will range from €800 (£610) to €2,800 (£2,100).

Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2016 haute couture Cubist inspired collection

The fashion house, founded by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren in 1993, has previously worked with Studio Job to create the scenography for a number of its shows.

The company opened its first flagship store in Paris in 2013, which was covered in grey felt by Architecture & Associés.

  • Concerned Citizen

    Fashion shows are just dark comedies. The models appear as though they were interrupted while shooting up, and would really rather get back to it. The costumes, pretending to be art, are wholly laughable.

    • HumanCobras

      So is your comment. It’s funny when people that THINK they know about fashion comment so immaturely.

      Their last few haute couture collections sold out. People are buying them. Mainly artists, art collectors. Don’t speak on something you know nothing about. This is not boring fashion. It’s what fashion is about. New ideas. Not just “clothes”.

      • Concerned Citizen

        Your best response is to throw insults; and you call me immature?

        • amsam

          No, his best response was to provide a viewpoint that counters your own.

          • Concerned Citizen

            Oh, you didn’t see the insults.

  • spadestick

    The ones that block the faces are appallingly bad.

    • HumanCobras

      Your opinion, but it’s amazing work.

  • HumanCobras

    These are fashion ideas! People that take it literally are ignorant. It’s art and fashion mixed. Viktor & Rolf’s couture lines have sold out. People are buying them. I can see these in museums in the future.

    It’s also good marketing for their “Flowerbomb” fragrance, which has been in the top ten fragrances worldwide for the last five years. They’re banking.

  • The_Pinchhitter

    Now, this is art. Someone needs to make a movie featuring creations by Victor & Rolf!