Dezeen Magazine

Unfold by Uli Budde and A.E. Köchert

Vienna Design Week 2011: Berlin designer Uli Budde unwrapped the facets of a brilliant-cut diamond to create the shape of this gold pendent, currently on show at Vienna Design Week.

Unfold by Uli Budde and A.E. Köchert

Budde developed the shape using paper models then had the final design rapid-prototyped and cast in gold.

Unfold by Uli Budde and A.E. Köchert

The inside of the curling pendant retains the rough marks of it's laser-sintered mould, while the outside is polished.

Unfold by Uli Budde and A.E. Köchert

Budde collaborated with jewellers to the imperial court A.E. Köchert as part of the Passionswege project, where Vienna Design Week commissions young designers to collaborate with traditional and highly skilled Viennese companies.

Unfold by Uli Budde and A.E. Köchert

Last year A.E. Köchert Juweliere participated in the Passionswege project with Swiss designer Nicolas Le Moigne - see our story about their project here.

Unfold by Uli Budde and A.E. Köchert

Vienna Design Week continues until 9 October. See all our stories about the event here.

You can also check out more Dezeen stories about jewellery here and more about Uli Budde here.

The information below is from Uli Budde:


The round brilliant cut or Diamantschliff as it was mathematically calculated by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 considered both the brilliance and fire of the stone. A geometry that inhabits symmetry, reflection, indestructibility, beauty and an accurate perfection of shape.

With UNFOLD designer Uli Budde has studied the anatomy of this shape, focussing less on the value of the diamond, but trying to understand its form. Reducing the volume of the cut stone to flat facets reveals a different understanding of its geometry, and makes it clear and understood by gradual exposure. The examining, unpacking, peeling down and unfolding of the centerpiece of jewelry has resulted in the necklace UNFOLD.

A Passionswege project in collaboration with former jeweller to the imperial court A.E. Köchert during the Vienna Design Week 2011 from September 30th to October 9th.

Design: Uli Budde
Producer: A.E. Köchert Juweliere
Year: 2011
Material: gold
Price on request at the producer