![Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_30.jpg)
Overground by DZHUS
Angular textured garments are accessorised with concrete cuffs in the Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Ukrainian fashion brand DZHUS.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_21.jpg)
DZHUS founder Irina Dzhus created geometric shapes from stiff materials to exaggerate silhouettes across the shoulders.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_7.jpg)
"I analysed shapes and structures of monumental constructions and tried my best to embody their principles in the silhouettes and cut of my designs," Dzhus told Dezeen.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_28.jpg)
A floor-length white dress with a high neck is detailed with two pleats at the front, which soften as they flare out down the length of the garment.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_15.jpg)
Other dresses in metallic fabric have straight profiles, though can be cinched at the waist by a wide grey belt in the same material.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_4.jpg)
Crinkled paper-like material is folded into shapes to create an effect similar to origami.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_12.jpg)
"I chose textiles that show strong association with building materials and atmosphere," said Dzhus. "I used wrinkled and metallic fabrics, net, glimmering coppery silk, smoky chiffon and other peculiarly textured surfaces."
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_22.jpg)
One triangular top has a structured collar and waistband but loose sleeves so movement isn't restricted. It is worn with a long blue pleated skirt.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_6.jpg)
A light grey tunic with a flat collar is cut into by darker diamond-shaped shoulder pieces and has gap in the front of the skirt.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_25.jpg)
Colours range from shades of rust and grey to deep orange and blue. Zips and square buttons provide details.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_27.jpg)
The square and round chunky concrete bracelets were made in collaboration with MEL Design.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_18.jpg)
Named Overground, the collection is intended to reference urban forms and industrial objects.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_17.jpg)
"This word makes an ironic analogy with 'underground' as a creative conception, and at the same time it is an eloquent statement about the grandiose idea of the collection glorifying sublime industrial objects," said Dzhus.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_2.jpg)
The range was shown at Ukrainian Fashion Week and Kiev Fashion Days Showroom earlier this year. Photography is by Olga Nepravda.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_14.jpg)
Our coverage of Autumn Winter 2013 fashion collections includes Aina Beck's foil-printed attire and Jaimee McKenna's pleated blue garments.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_11.jpg)
See more collections from Autumn Winter 2013 »
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Here is some more information from the designer:
DZHUS conceptual wear brand was founded in 2010 by a Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus who had graduated from Kiev National University of Technologies and Design and had already worked as a fashion stylist for apparel, accessories and cosmetics campaigns as well as collaborated with celebrities.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_8.jpg)
The brand’s design concept is based on interaction and transformation of construction modules in order to create new aesthetics of the form – avant-garde and virtually archetypical at the same time, categoric but variable.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_26.jpg)
An urbanistic Autumn Winter 2013 collection, Overground, was demonstrated at Ukrainian Fashion Week New Names Show and Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days Showroom.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_9.jpg)
Architectonical design of the collection interprets monumental structure of industrial objects. Style of the garments glorifies sublime technocratic aesthetics and functionalist utilitarian constructions.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_23.jpg)
High quality of specifically textured fabrics equalises commercial aspect of the pieces with their grandiose idea.
![Overground by DZHUS Overground by DZHUS](https://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2013/05/dezeen_Overground-by-DZHUS_29.jpg)
DZHUS advertising campaign is created by fashion photographer Olga Nepravda. Monolithic concrete cuffs were manufactured in collaboration with MEL Design.