132 5. by Issey Miyake


132 5. by Issey Miyake

Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake has designed a range of clothing that expand from two-dimensional geometric shapes into structured shirts, skirts, pants and dresses. Update: this project is included in Dezeen Book of Ideas, which is on sale now for £12.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

Ten basic two-dimensional patterns make up the collection, the eventual garments being decided by the lines the patterns are cut along and their position.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

Many clothing variations can be created by utilising the patterns in various scales and combinations.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The project was inspired by the work of computer scientist Jun Mitani who creates three-dimensional structures with smoothly curved surfaces by folding flat materials.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The designers used a computer modelling program designed by Mitani to design the three dimensional forms of the garments, which are then modeled in paper adding cuts and fold lines until the forms can be flattened.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The project was undertaken by Miyake's Reality Lab, a research and development team formed by Miyake, textile engineer Manabu Kikuchi and pattern engineer Sachinko Yamamoto.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The 132 5. flagship store has been designed by Tokujin Yoshioka and will open this autumn.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

Photos are by Hiroshi Iwasaki.

Here are more details from Issey Miyake:

“132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE” ― Born from a union between mathematics and clothes making .

In the autumn of 2010, ISSEY MIYAKE’s Reality Lab. will present “132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE”.  Reality Lab. is a research and development team lead by Issey Miyake and two staff members, Manabu Kikuchi (textile engineer) and Sachiko Yamamoto (pattern engineer) and comprised of a group of designers, some of whom are young and relatively new to the Miyake Design Studio.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The team was formed in 2007, and currently has 8 members. The Reality Lab. is a project based upon the principal of collaboration and teamwork . Their goal is, through research, to explore the future of making things from clothing to industrial products. The Reality Lab. always seeks to create products that reflect what people need and to find new ways to stimulate creative production in Japan.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

Clothes and products
Keywords: regeneration, re-creation

Japan has always created beautiful and beautifully-made things by striking a balance in work that lies between the aesthetic and the practical. Today, however is a very different era. One example of this is the current situation that surrounds the manufactures. Unfortunately, cost-cutting often becomes a factory’s primary motivating factor. As a result, talented workers, the very backbone of the local manufacturing strength, are lost.   How to pass on and educate the valuable technical skills remain as the major problem to be solved. We need to be aware that we are at a crossroads in human history, where our natural and human resources are at risk. Our goals must be to find new environmentally-friendly ways by which to continue the art of creation, to utilize our valuable human skills and to make things that will bring joy.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake has always made a point of visiting local material production areas & factories spread all over the country, and developing close working relationships with those working at each site. The exhibition which opened at 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT in 2008 was entitled “ XXIst Century Man” and was born from Miyake’s (who also curated the exhibition)  experiences (and incorporating research by the Reality Lab.). It examined our way of life and the current global environmental crisis with an eye toward new means by which to make things.  In 2010, we will present a new project:  “132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE”, based upon one of the latest developments from the Reality Lab. team’s ongoing research. “132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE” continues the exploration into the process of creation and production and offers a new process being developed at the Miyake Design Studio.

132 5. by Issey Miyake


A conversation with computer scientist Jun Mitani, a researcher of mathematical methods by which to create three-dimensional structures through the folding of flat paper.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

A single piece of cloth is folded into a square. When one grasps the top of the folded square and pulls it upwards, a three-dimensional shape is revealed. The shape, in this case, an item of clothing, is produced by the folds and determined by all acute angles and triangles that make up the structure.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

A total of ten basic patterns (i.e. forms when folded) become shirts, skirts, pants, and one-piece dresses depending on the cut-lines in different positions.  There are many other variations of the clothes created by different sizes of the same shapes and different combinations of shapes.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The Reality Lab’.s team first met computer scientist Jun Mitani (Associate Professor at the Graduate School of System and Information Engineering, University of Tsukuba) who is specialized in form modeling in computer graphics and were introduced to his unique geometric shapes in 2008. Inspired by CG application* developed by Dr. Mitani that creates three-dimensional paper model with smoothly curved surface out of a single flat sheet of  paper, the team embarked upon a new adventure in research.

* It is the CG software to create geometric shapes that contain three-dimensional forms with symmetrical axis.  Its characteristics are to create the shapes by folding a sheet of paper.  Dr. Mitani conducts mathematical research on the creation of three-dimensional forms by folding a flat material.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

First, the Reality Lab. team digitally designs three-dimensional shapes, using the CG application. Then, they use the diagrams to make 3D shapes from paper; and study ways by which they can then be returned into folded-flat shapes. In order to return them to flat, planar shapes, it is necessary to incorporate “fold lines” and “cut lines”, which are not included in the original CG diagrams. The Reality Lab.’s collective experience is critical to the process, as they have to look at each piece of clothing from the standpoint of its aesthetics and comfort.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The beauty when folded, the elegance and gracefulness when worn, “132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE” fuses the mathematics of folding and the art of clothes making. It is an exploration of ways by which to make many different products as well as to forge new relationships between clothing and the human form.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

132 5. ― The meaning behind the numbers

The name, 132 5. was born from the above-mentioned process. Each of the numerals has a special significance. The numeral “1” refers to a single piece of cloth, while “3” refers to its three-dimensional shape. The following “2” comes from the fact that a 3D piece of material is folded into a two-dimensional shape, and the “5” separated by a single space refers to the time between when the folded forms are made and people actually put them on, giving birth to clothing. The numeral “5” also signifies our hope that this idea will have many other permutations.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

The future of materials, resources and making things

One of the many goals that the Reality Lab. shares is to search for and develop materials that do not depend on fossil fuels. One of the fruits of their research has been PET, a material generated by Teijin Limited from chemical recycling by pulverizing, melting and “spinning” threads out of polyethylene terephthalate.  This is the polyester fiber used to make all  “132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE” clothing.

Using this revolutionary recycled material (fibers), the Reality Lab. came up with original ideas by which to further improve the fibers to yield more comfortable clothes. This work was done in conjunction with the textile-producing factories that have long been associated  with ISSEY MIYAKE’s work.

132 5. by Issey Miyake

Teijin Limited, a leading producer of polyester fibers made from chemical recycling, has begun a resource recycling system called “Eco-Circle”. The system is truly the first of its kind: recovered polyester fabric items can be broken down at the molecular level and reprocessed into highly-pure raw materials over and over. The resulting materials do not fall in quality or degrade even after repeated processing, and compared to making new polyester materials from petroleum, the process is touted to reduce energy consumption and CO2 emissions by about 80 percent. By using PET to create products, “132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE”  plans to join “Eco-Circle”.

Logo and store design

The logo and package designs are created by Art Director Katsumi Asaba. The flagship store, scheduled to open this autumn in Tokyo is designed by Tokujin Yoshioka. The launch will begin with a limited release at the ISSEY MIYAKE stores in New York, Paris, London, etc.


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Issey Miyake

Posted on Tuesday October 5th 2010 at 1:39 pm by Brad Turner. Copyright policy | Comments policy

  • slow

    love it! but who will manage to fold back? ;-)

    • daedalus

      your mom !

    • d.sl

      It's actually very easy to fold the pieces. So no worries … :-)

  • Alexandra Campbell Interiors

    Wicked. Seriously @Slow…once it's unfolded, it will be a disaster trying to fold it back. lol

  • Young

    wow… incredible.

  • Love it !!!!! fantastic ;-)

  • arquiteto

    not sexy. I hope the beautifil and very femail japanese girls do not use this robotic ego design for critics. makit sexxxxyyy!!!!

  • Nice to see some original designs, really stunning. Thanks for posting.


  • Eduardo

    He is a master!

  • jennie

    this is really one of the most amazing garment ideas i have seen in a while

  • truly amazing but how work it out is real question .
    Maja S

  • He's a God.

    A lovely God.

  • as a conceptual work of design, I think it's AMAZING! And I actually liked how the dress looked in the model with a belt… now, in it's practical day-to-day use… I don't know! But looking at this makes me think: How I wish I've come up with an idea like this!!!!

  • This is real art+fashion+architecture, just great!

  • danb

    buy to hang on wall, do not wear!

  • doctor black

    Take a week to iron those jeans. Forget it.

  • Zino

    Issey-san is an inventor working in fabric. There’s probably no fashion designer in the world who knows more about the technology of fabrics. Doesn’t hurt a bit that he’s also a genius and a very nice man as well.

  • Nice to see this conceptual geometric design in fashion. Looking forward to passing by Issey.

  • Free

    Love it! But hate it to be a man for not being able to wear it…

  • Timian

    Packing one's garment bag just got SO MUCH easier.

    P.S. Miyake is *amazing*. He consistently creates genuinely unique and beautiful fashions.

  • DoLo

    This shit is truly amazing! And for all of you wondering how it gets folded back….. Part of the lines representation is sustainability. So all of the garments are made from recycled polyester.. and as all of you designers know, that shit holds it's pleats almost permanently. So folding it back shouldn't be too hard..

  • JuiceMajor

    I really luv this….the idea is so simple but require plenty of precision!

  • angie

    while beautiful designs, I'm not a fan of the material. polyester also holds in smells and heat. it doesn't breathe. i'm not interested in wearing a petroleum-based fabric but I think it makes sense for the home. especially given it's strength.

  • Francisco

    Lovely. I want them all.

  • Since it's heat set, actually it would come back to the original fold – as long as you do not put it in the dryer/drycleaning/or expose to strong heat in any way –