Dezeen Magazine

Craig Green references boats and uniforms in latest menswear collection

Masculine ideals are explored throughout Craig Green's Autumn Winter 2018 collection, which features utilitarian garments, boldly printed waterproofs and accessories shaped like rafts.

The designer's Autumn Winter collection, shown at London Fashion Week Men's earlier this week, was intended to explore the foundations of male dress codes.

"Blueprints of masculine dress, inherited codes of strength, and heroic utility are explored through a worshipping gaze," said the designer's show notes.

As well as presenting uniform-inspired shirts, coats and trousers, Green peppered the menswear collection with raft-like accessories, made from wooden frames and waterproof fabrics.

The designer described these pieces, some of which obscured the models' vision completely, as "vessels".

"A dutiful idea of falling in line is embodied by prominent gig seams running the length of torsos and legs. Echoing this, contrast fin panels outline and embolden the silhouette to represent once idealised moulds," he said.

"Through perseverance, a more restless and self-driven energy emerges. Blindly carried vessels are broken down, and clothing is pulled apart and patched with new components in a collage of immediacy," the designer continued.

Highlights from the collection included knitwear pieces that looked to have been collaged together, shirts with thick inside-out seams, grey jersey casualwear and trousers adorned with large patch pockets.

The colour palette was varied – with bold aquamarine tones paired against khakis and simple monochrome ensembles.

Towards the end of the show, models emerged wearing coats printed with bold colours and patterns.

"Finally the weight of reality begins to lift, as practical details are smoothed away in favour of wild graphic impressions, that channel identity most innately. Here, a child-like attitude of daring is accessed, that promises to return these men full circle," said the designer.

Green graduated from London's Central Saint Martins art college in 2012. He often shows pieces in his collection that feature sculptural elements, including giant fabric veils and masks made from splintered planks of wood.

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