Concentrated
by Sruli Recht

| 15 comments
 

Wooden clothes feature in Iceland-based fashion designer Sruli Recht's Autumn Winter 2013 menswear collection.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Layers of walnut wood were divided into triangles then mounted on a textile base to create a pliable material that forms the geometric shapes of the garments.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Most of the items in Sruli Recht's collection are constructed from a single pattern and piece of material, with sweaters woven from complete unravelled skeins of wool and cotton blend.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

The charred colour scheme of black and grey is broken only by a yellow ochre suit and a matching pair of suede shoes that have the patterns of the wooden items repeated on their soles.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Eiderdown collected from abandoned nests on the beaches in the Westfjörds of Iceland, metal mesh and reindeer skin are all included in the material palette.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Recht also created a ring from skin surgically removed from his own belly for the collection - see it here.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Other items of jewellery in the collection combine black and white acrylic resin with fool's gold and peacock ore specimens, fused in a process akin to fossilisation and hand sculpted by jewellery artist Jade Mellor.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

The wooden textiles were created with German designer Elisa Strozyk, whose wooden carpet project we featured a while ago.

Small oxidised metal pins for fastening collars and chunky wooden boots also feature in the collection, which was presented at the Carousel de Louvre during Paris Men's Fashion Week last week (above).

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Recht works from his Reykjavik studio to create garments and accessories from unconventional materials, and his previous collections have included stillborn lamb leather and silk extracted from a spider's gland implanted in a goat.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

We posted stories about a wooden t-shirt prototype and carnival costumes made from folded paper last year.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Photography is by Marinó Thorlacius.

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Story

This is the fifth complete menswear line from Sruli Recht. “This collection is completely burned.” - Sruli Recht, January, 2013. The collection in three words – facetted, charred, smoking.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

The Concentrated collection for Autumn and Winter 2013/14 consists of 28 total looks - from heavy coats, fur jackets, tailored suits, cardigans, to trousers, shorts and underwear, pea-coats, shirts, sweaters and jerseys, complimented by boots, loafers, trainers, bags, raincoats, gloves, cufflinks and fossilized resin jewellery - 60 styles, approximately 150 with material variations.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

All garments and product samples are produced in-house and in the EU, unless otherwise stated. The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, utilising an origami hybrid of tailoring, draping and digital modification.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

This season employs a global selection of waxed cottons, leathers, wool and felts, silks, and timber, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin. A permanent creasing system has been developed for the mechanised pleat structures of the garments. Our buttons this season are in the form of a facetted shield, made from oxidised metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Materials

Featured sourced materials: Japanese denim and heavy satin, goat skin, walnut wood, cashmere rib, metal mesh, Austrian felt, Scottish waxed cotton, viscose jersey, wool and modal jersey, silk and cupro shirting, shearling, pixelated rabbit fur, and Italian wool suiting.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Anthropodermic Leather

In a documented one-time surgery-performance, a plastic surgeon removed a 110mm x 10mm strip of skin from the abdomen of Sruli Recht. The subcutaneous tissue and epidermis was then scraped from the dermis, which is stripped of fat by hand and blade, before being salted, and tanned with an Alum solution. The resulting leather from the dermis was prepared for use in the ring, Forget Me Knot.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Wool Silk Skeins

Complete and unwound skeins made of 30% silk and 70% wool, made in Switzerland, hand applied in an incredibly intricate process on the stand.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Polygonal Wooden Material

To transform wood into a flexible wooden surface, by dark digital art, a cell-phone whispered soft binary code to a walnut tree seed for a year, then planted it in the ashes of a glacier.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Once grown, the wood is deconstructed into geometric pieces, and then attached to a textile base by hand, creating a material half wood, half textile - a flexible wooden surface, completely fragmentary.

The "Wooden Textiles" in this collection are produced with Elisa Strozyk, uniquely for our garments.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Fossilised Resin

Emulating nature's processes of fossilisation and weathering, our jewellery this season is made using resin and raw minerals. Combing black acrylic resin with pyrite specimens, and white resin with bornite specimens (peacock ore), each piece is individually hand sculpted by Jade Mellor.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Eiderdown

Hand collected Eiderdown from the abandoned nests on the beaches of Örlygshofn, in the Westfjörds of Iceland.
The down of birds is a layer of fine feathers found under the tougher exterior feathers.

Concentrated by Sruli Recht

Very young birds are clad only in down. The loose structure of down feathers traps air, which helps to insulate the bird against heat loss. The word down comes from the Old Norse word dūnn.

The down is cleaned in our studio for use in our show-piece Interdiktor.

  • http://twitter.com/ScottRobbie1 @ScottRobbie1

    Matt colours and military geometry: this sort of clobber would look good on Christian Bale and Thomas Hardy as they duke it out.

    • João Rocha

      You should check out concept art for Deus Ex Human Revolution. Definitely spot on!

  • alex

    We used to joke about virtually modelling clothes in architecture school. They stayed as jokes.

    • Rob

      Way to go on constructive criticism.
      Those who can't do, dis.

  • Paul O' Brien

    I particularly like the jewellery, shoes and black geometric jacket. Very nice

  • http://hashtag140.tumblr.com/ alexine

    SO unsustainable but SO nice!

    • Pauli

      I wouldn’t necessarily call this unsustainable; if you buy one of these clothes, you don’t throw it away after a month like many do with H&M and so forth but take good care of it and keep it for years. This is of course true only to people with limited income.

      • Nagmier

        I agree. Quite likely the wood is scrap from industry or furniture makers, or even veneers. You wouldn’t actually have to use that much. Very few would probably be produced and the impact on the environment minimal. Not only are H+M and Zara and the like purveyors of disposable clothing, the industrial manufacturing impact of the textile/fashion industry is one of the leading causes of global pollution.

  • Allan

    The sixth design I’d wear in prison.

  • Alessandra

    This reminds me of the wooden T-shirt “projet triangle” by Pauline Marcombe, published on Dezeen few months ago. I wouldn’t necessary call this plagiarism, but I have some doubts about it.

  • Claudia

    I wonder whether the Berlin-based designer Elisa Strozyk is the collaborator as she works since a few years in this kind of technique – see http://www.elisastrozyk.de/seite/woodtex/woodente

  • Serge

    Is Elisa Strozyk involved in this? Beautiful work!

  • Morons

    Is Elisa involved? Read the article. Such a good technique.

  • ben

    Given a choice between being comfy and being unbearably cool, I always… have a wild guess…

  • http://twitter.com/MGProjekt @MGProjekt

    Nice designs, great ideas.

    I’ve never seen anything like this before!