Dezeen Magazine

Anrealage debuts colour-changing clothes at Paris Fashion Week

Japanese fashion brand Anrealage has presented a colour-changing collection at Paris Fashion Week that was activated by suspended moving UV lights.

The Autumn Winter 2023 presentation took place at Théâtre de la Madeleine in central Paris and saw models walk on stage wearing 1950s-inspired shapes and silhouettes that first appeared in crisp, all-white fabrics.

Photo of models at Anrealage
Anrealage presented the collection during Paris Fashion Week

A procession of models assigned in pairs entered and exited the theatre stage-cum-runway and presented what the audience began to assume was an all-white collection.

As the fourth set of models came onto the stage, they were joined by two light strips that slowly lowered from the ceiling in front of them.

Photo of the Anrealage show
It used photochromic fabrics and materials

A beam of UV light began sweeping up and down the length of their bodies to reveal brightly coloured and boldly patterned finishes across the formerly all-white, now colourful looks.

This colour-changing technique was achieved by constructing garments using photochromic fabrics and materials that change colour when exposed to sunlight and proximity of UV rays.

"With a collection blending classic 50s-inspired shapes and futuristic materials that change color when exposed to natural sunlight, Anrealage expands its portfolio of experimental photochromic materials produced in-house, adding faux fur, velvet, lace, knit, jacquard and satin," explained Anrealage in its show notes.

After around three minutes, the garments returned to their original colour, once the photochromatic areas were no longer exposed to UV rays.

Photo of UV light at Anrealage
UV light revealed colourful patterns and prints

The colours that appear on the garments will constantly shift and evolve, as the weather and shifting seasons affect the intensity of the sunlight and UV rays, explained the brand.

"As the intensity of natural sunlight is ever-changing, the colors are constantly shifting," it said.

"Pristine white looks... shift into another tonal range, thanks to photosensitive colors that are designed to evolve through the days and seasons, coexisting with nature and the environment."

Models on the runway
Photochromic technology was applied to faux fur

The collection included satin dresses with oversized crochet collars, faux fur garments and cocoon-shaped coats constructed with no front or back, that transformed to reveal colourful patterns in checkerboard, plaid and polka dots.

Anrealage is a Japanese fashion brand that was founded by Kunihiko Morinaga. Morinaga graduated from Waseda University, Faculty of Social Sciences before starting Anrealage in 2003.

Last year, Coperni debuted its Spring Summer 2023 collection, which saw it collaborate with Fabrican to spray a liquid fibre dress onto the body of Bella Hadid.

Dior also presented its Autumn Winter 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week, which incorporated a 24-metre-long installation by artist Joana Vasconcelos that was made from fabrics and textiles from the collection.

The photography is by Koji Hirano.

More images

Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week
Anrealage at Paris Fashion Week