Gareth Pugh brings his "modern armour" to London for AW15

Gareth Pugh brings his "modern armour" back to London for Autumn Winter 2015

British fashion designer Gareth Pugh has made a patriotic return to London Fashion Week, pulling together references from across the UK for his Autumn Winter 2015 show.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

After presenting in Paris for seven years, the designer brought the show to London to celebrate his label's 10th anniversary.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

"This city is where everything started for me, my entire creative family are here, so it's in everything I do," said Pugh. "It's my home."

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

His presentation on Saturday evening took place in the imposing Raphael Gallery at the V&A museum, where Barber and Osgerby's giant rotating mirrors were installed for last year's London Design Festival.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

It began with a film by cinematographer Ruth Hogben of a model cutting her long blond hair short, then painting her face and body with the red cross of Saint George – England's patron saint.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

The giant projected image remained on screen and provided the backdrop for the catwalk.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

Britannia, the female personification of the country, was the muse for Pugh's all-black Autumn Winter 2015 collection.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

"Britannia heralds the onslaught, a weaponised woman, hardened and battle ready," said the notes issued at the show.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

s Roman helmet, trident and shield were exaggerated and adapted into accessories worn by the models, whose faces were each painted with Saint George's cross.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

"In the past Pugh has described his work as modern armour, and this collection is totally informed by this ideal," said the show notes.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

The presentation was set to a soundtrack of heavy bass noises laid over chants from Sunderland Football Club – the team of Pugh's home town.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

Having previously used strips of bin liners to form garments, Pugh debuted clothes covered in thousands of hand-cut black drinking straws for this season.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

The straws were used to create "birdlike and reptilian" dresses that swayed and shifted as the models walked, as well as stiff panels attached to bodices, skirts and oversized shoulder pieces.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

Giant padded coats were wrapped around the body like duvets with sleeves, which were enlarged towards the openings.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

Leather bodices with V-shaped hem lines were paired with floor-length skirts, while long leather gloves and boots featuring shield-like shin guards accompanied fur dresses.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

One outfit was completed by a tall bearskin hat, which is worn as part of the ceremonial military uniform of the Foot Guards – best recognised in their posts outside Buckingham Palace.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week

Bare-chested and painted to match the character from the film, the final model carried a huge red flag to lead a procession for the finale.

Gareth Pugh Autumn Winter 2015 at London Fashion Week
Projected image from Ruth Hogben's film, used as a backdrop for the show

London Fashion Week continues until 24 February. Also during the event, The Unseen is presenting a sculptural jacket that changes colour depending on the wearer's mood.

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