Dezeen Magazine

Sadie Williams gives retro ski wear a futuristic twist for Off Piste Autumn Winter 2016 collection

London fashion designer Sadie Williams has put a spin on vintage winter-sports attire with metallic textiles for her Autumn Winter 2016 collection, presented during London Fashion Week (+ slideshow).

Williams debuted the garments at the Institute of Contemporary Arts on Friday, in a static presentation designed as "an immersive slalom environment".

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

The Central Saint Martins graduate based her 10-piece Off Piste collection on old photographs of her parents on a skiing holiday.

"Old school ski-wear emblazoned with bold chevrons and swooping curves was a major source of inspiration," said a statement from Williams.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

She interpreted the colours and patterns of their retro attire with her signature metallic textiles, previously used to create a set of sci-fi garments that were shortlisted for the 2014 Design of the Year award by London's Design Museum.

Williams also developed her application of heat-pressing techniques to print, foil and emboss a variety of fabrics.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

"Multi-textured garments dominate in a wintery landscape of frosty lurex and metallic leather, and snuggly wools," she said.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

Wadded ski jackets were translated into a blue A-line skirt and a fuller red design, both quilted with stripes and chevrons.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

Silver-coloured leather was used to form trousers based on a pair worn by Williams' father.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

The designer also repurposed large carabiner clasps typically used for climbing as handles for bags, while smaller versions tied up the models' hair.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

Swatches of different check-patterned wool were combined to create kilt-like skirts, finished with foil hems.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

Artist Marland Backus produced gloopy silicone elements to add to accessories, with forms created to evoke melting snow.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

The set for the presentation was designed to simulate a chilly mountainside and was accompanied by sounds of bitter polar winds.

Models stood between fluorescent light tubes and coloured slalom gates, anchored with concrete bases wrapped in hiking rope – also created by Backus.

Sadie Williams x Newgen AW16

Another artist, Safia El Dabi, marbled paint across the top to mimic jagged rocks. White fabric representing snowy slopes draped down from the peaks and across the floor.

The Autumn Winter 2016 edition of London Fashion Week runs from 19 to 23 February 2016. London College of Fashion's MA Womenswear graduates presented their collections on the eve of the event – see Dezeen's favourites from the show.


Project credits:

Stylist: Poppy Kain
Casting: Henry Thomas
Set and Jewellery: Marland Backus
Backdrop: Safia El Dabi
Art Direction: Jamie Reid
Set Design: Joe Bond
Hair: Syd Hayes
Make Up: Rebecca Wordingham