The Italian fashion house presented the outdoor-pursuits-influenced collection as part of Milan fashion week yesterday.
AMO – the research branch of OMA – upheld its longstanding tradition of designing the catwalk. It was installed at the Fondazione Prada complex, the building completed by the Rotterdam-based architecture firm last year.
The studio left the remnants of its design from last season's shows, based on theatres built for public trials of heretics, around the periphery of the space.
In the centre, sections of metal mesh created a continuous ramp suspended between the floor and ceiling. It was used for a false ceiling, and as a covering for architectural elements like columns.
"A continuous metallic surface folds around all the elements of the set: generating an abstract layer, composed of meshes with different patterns and dimensions that overlap to recreate a total space," said AMO.
"The transparency of the cladding material unveils the underlying framework with Cartesian precision."
The sloped runway doglegged up through the space, all the time gradually inclined so the returning models were higher up than those just emerged. For the finale, they walked in the opposite direction – all heading downhill.
The mesh also provided stepped seating for guests, who were deliberately kept at a length from the models.
"The models walk in the centre at a controlled distance from the audience, virtually levitating in the space," AMO added. "They ascend onto the elongated slope of the ramp incessantly, disappearing towards the vanishing point."
Multicoloured lighting installed underneath the surfaces glowed up through the perforations, creating an aesthetic reminiscent of a nightclub – similar to the pop-up space OMA created for Prada's sister brand Miu Miu last year.
As with previously years, the catwalk will be altered slightly to host Prada's Spring Summer 2017 womenswear show in September.
Most recently, AMO created a short film to present fashion house Prada's Spring Summer 2016 collection, using graphics that look like architectural renderings.
Photography is by Agostino Osio, unless stated otherwise.