Dezeen Magazine

AMO simulates an infinite catwalk for Prada menswear show

Dutch studio OMA's research branch AMO has created a series of symmetrical linked vestibules to form a disorientating runway for Prada's Autumn Winter 2015 menswear show (+ slideshow).

As with previous seasons, architect Rem Koolhaas' interiors-focused studio designed the set for Italian fashion house Prada's latest presentation, which took place yesterday as part of Milan Moda Uomo – the city's men's fashion week.

Prada AW15 menswear catwalk by OMA/AMO

AMO divided a space inside the Fondazione Prada at Via Fogazzaro 36 into a series of interconnected rooms in two lines side by side, each with slightly different proportions.

"The existing room is disguised into a classic enfilade of rooms, gradually changing proportions as in an abstract mannerist perspective," said a statement from the studio.

Prada AW15 menswear catwalk by OMA/AMO
Photograph by Agostino Osio

"As opposed to a single stage, the new sequence of spaces multiplies and fragments the show into a series of intimate moments."

Named The Infinite Palace, the layout formed a route that models followed up along one side and returned down the other.

Prada AW15 menswear catwalk by OMA/AMO

"The progression through the connected rooms simulates endless repetitions and symmetries, while providing the illusion of an infinite palace," said the studio.

"As the models move linearly across the enfilade the audience, divided into small groups, are pushed to close and intimate proximity with the collection."

Prada AW15 menswear catwalk by OMA/AMO

Each of the spaces was linked by an aluminium mesh-clad tunnel, brightly illuminated from behind with vertical tube lights to contrast with the darker, larger rooms.

These chambers and tunnels became smaller and tighter in succession towards the back of the space.

Prada AW15 menswear catwalk by OMA/AMO

Mesh panels were also installed across the ceilings in the faux marble-lined rooms to obscure the lighting fixtures above.

Textured metal sheets were laid on the floor to form geometric shapes in the centre of each room.

"Blue and black (false) marble cover the floors and walls transforming each space into a tridimensional excavation," the studio said. "In this disorientating landscape aluminium geometric inserts in the ground mark the sequence of spaces."

Prada AW15 menswear catwalk by OMA/AMO

The audience sat on tiered benches arranged in the corners of the dark space, observing the collection that aimed to highlight gender differences and similarities.

Both male and female models walked during the menswear show, wearing Prada's predominantly black and minimal garments for this season.

Prada has been working with OMA for 25 years on designs for the brand's catwalks and store interiors. Previous projects include a runway that floated on a blue pool for Spring Summer 2015 and a range of angular furniture used for the Autumn Winter 2013 set.

Prada AW15 menswear catwalk by OMA/AMO

Despite the ongoing collaboration with Koolhaas' studio, the fashion house enlisted designer Martino Gamper to design its latest shop windows – revealed earlier this month.

Photography by Alberto Moncada, unless otherwise stated.

Project credits:

Team: Cedric van Parys, Giacomo Ardesio, Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli (Partner), Miguel Taborda