Gareth Pugh responds to political climate with Autumn Winter 2017 collection
For his latest collection at this season's London Fashion Week, fashion designer Gareth Pugh created garments informed by the "inescapable forces of the cultural landscape".
Pugh's autumn winter 2017 collection, which took place at an old music hall in north London, was designed over a period he described as "ambiguous and troubling".
For much of this time, the designer was travelling for various creative projects and ended up in Washington during the US election.
Trump's election as US president informed much of the collection, with Pugh reacting to the turbulent political climate by creating purposefully pared-back garments.
In his show notes, he mused on the current world being "where the prevailing instinct is to build walls, reinstate borders and reclaim territory" and "where the most powerful person in the world is a billionaire demagogue and self-confessed pussy grabber."
"That such sensory overload might lead to a stately procession of stark, architectural silhouettes and garments almost exclusively rendered in pared-back and unfussy fabrics, speaks to a discipline of thought," he continued.
Visual cues were mainly taken from old films, including the controversial Nazi-themed erotic thriller The Night Porter.
This particular inspiration was seen in the bondage-style garments, tailored coats and officer-style headwear.
The soundtrack to the catwalk was made up of a number of music samples chosen by Pugh. The selection jumped from one sample to the other in a disorderly fashion – something the designer based on CIA sleep-deprivation techniques used in interrogation.
Models included activists and artists, each of whom wore bug-eye lenses that made their entire eye appear completely blacked-out.
Pugh's collection was debuted during this season's London Fashion Week, which takes place from 17 to 21 February.
Since bringing his biannual shows back to the UK capital from Paris in February 2015, the Sunderland-born designer has shown collections including a range that pulled together references from across Britain and a set of disco-themed garments inspired by London's Soho district.
He has previously created costumes for a ballet called Carbon Life, which premiered at the city's Royal Opera House in 2012.