Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2015
Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Mary Katrantzou contrasts Modernist shapes with "horror vacui" details for Autumn Winter 2015

Squishy foam spikes featured on garments and the catwalk at fashion designer Mary Katrantzou's Autumn Winter 2015 show during London Fashion Week.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

The London-based Greek designer experimented with the juxtaposition of forms, materials and patterns in her garments, presented at Lindley Hall as part of London Fashion Week.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Her collection contrasted simple silhouettes with "horror vacui" or "kenophobia" – the fear of empty space – which involves covering entire surfaces with detail.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

"For Autumn Winter 2015, Katrantzou observes the inverse relationship between the horror vacui art movement and reactionary modernism," said the notes issued at Sunday's show.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

The designer also aimed to balance the type of embellishment revered by the Victorians with today's Minimalist idea of luxury.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

"An exploration of the relationship between heritage opulence and techy utopia, the collection seeks to redefine the parameters of modern luxury and documents the significance of value perception," said the show notes.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Flared skirts created using wadded hem channels were paired with striped tops.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Meanwhile, fur collars and trims adorning patterned jackets contrasted with geometric 3D shapes appliquéd onto waistbands, hems and coat pockets.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

"The contrast to the 19th century bourgeoisie? Tubular echoes of a Modernist aesthetic, emulated in strict rectilinear shapes and abbreviated hemlines," said Katrantzou's statement.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Foam pyramid shapes recurred throughout the presentation, used across the garments and translated onto the catwalk itself by fashion show set design specialist Bureau Betak.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Other 3D shapes appeared like gelatinous gemstones, used as oversized sequins to create gridded textured patterns across the garments.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) was wrapped into tube-shaped tops, skirts and dresses, embossed with florid shapes.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

To create these garments, Katrantzou looked to automotive textile technology that allows the creation of seamless forms without the need for stitches.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Plastic paisley shapes and bands of rubberised strands also decorated the garments, made from materials including pleated organza and flocked tulle.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

"This collection challenges and explores our notions of status, value and plain good taste," the show notes concluded.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 London Fashion Week

Also during this season's London Fashion Week, which concludes today, Gareth Pugh made a patriotic statement with a Britannia-inspired collection and Sibling referenced the colour palette of Verner Panton for its garments.